We arrived around 11:15 AM, following the transition to Daylight Saving Time overnight (one hour earlier). We spoke with a member of the ambulance crew and asked why there were so few people—wondering if the clock change played a role. According to him, there are always fewer people on the last Friday of Ramadan; the peak occurs on Laylat al-Qadr, which took place a few days ago. Tomorrow (Saturday) is the final day of fasting, followed by Eid al-Fitr. The man, a resident of the Shuafat refugee camp, is an active community member serving as both an ambulance medic and a firefighter. We discussed the heavy atmosphere due to the fighting in Gaza and the West Bank and the difficult situation everywhere. It has been a sad month of Ramadan, and the holiday will likely be the same.

On the stairs descending toward Damascus Gate, there are already quite a few stalls selling fruits, vegetables, toys, household items, and various trinkets. Food stalls are expected to arrive later. On the roof of the building across the street, facing the gate, there is a Border Police post (snipers, or perhaps just observers?).

Anat spoke with a foreign media crew setting up their equipment. They were unaware that the clocks had changed to Summer Time. In our experience, the Palestinian Authority does not always synchronize its clock changes with Israel’s, but in the current situation this year, it appears there are almost no worshippers arriving from the West Bank.

We entered through Damascus Gate and walked downward. Near the Austrian Hospice, we turned left and proceeded along the Via Dolorosa toward Lions’ Gate. On the way, we peeked into the courtyard of St. Anne’s Church (entry requires a ticket, so we saved the visit for another time).

Inside the Old City, shops and stalls are selling everything imaginable: prayer mats, chairs, stools, various foods, clothing, and toys. At the bottom of the Damascus Gate descent, where the road splits into El-Wad (Hagai) St. and Khan el-Zeit (Beit HaBad) St., there is a stand preparing special Ramadan pastries. Security forces stand to the side, behind bars. There are relatively few people, and despite the activity, there is no festive atmosphere. There are no holiday decorations or light strings illuminated at dusk, neither at Damascus Gate nor in the streets of the Old City.

At times, it seems there are more police and Border Police officers than worshippers. However, they stand quietly, mostly behind barriers, and we witnessed no confrontations with the public.

We continued toward the gates of the Temple Mount. Near Bab al-Huta, we spoke with one of the police officers. We explained who we are and what we do. Photography is permitted, though, of course, we are not allowed to enter the Mount. (For those unaware: Jews enter only through the Mughrabi Gate near the Western Wall and only during relatively early morning hours). Most of those entering the Mount do so through the gate near Lions’ Gate. At this hour, traffic at the other gates is very thin.

We stood for a while near the entrance closest to Lions’ Gate, where most worshippers were arriving. Quranic verses and other broadcasts could be heard over the loudspeakers. There was a steady flow of people entering, but no overcrowding.

We exited through Lions’ Gate. There are significant security forces here, most behind bars. There is active movement of worshippers, mostly arriving from the direction of the Rockefeller Museum (buses drop people off at the intersection and continue toward Wadi Joz). Stalls are spread out along the Eastern Wall. A few people arrive via the road ascending from the Ophel.

We continued outside the Old City, walking north along the Eastern Wall. We turned opposite the Rockefeller Museum and walked uphill along the wall toward Flowers’ Gate. We re-entered and walked to the Austrian Hospice, where we took a break for iced coffee, salad, and pizza. We finished and left, hoping to head out before the post-prayer crowds. However, upon exiting, it became clear we were seeing the last of those rushing to pray. It seems the prayers are still being held according to Winter Time. We exited through Damascus Gate, where the number of stalls had increased.