Back to reports search page
Donate
Tue 1.1.08, Afternoon
Observers: Julia W., rina H., Chana G., Rahel W. (reporting)
|
|
|
Rachel crossing and Rachel's tomb
We boarded bus number 163, an Egged bus which travels from the Central Bus Station in Jerusalem to Rachel's tomb. The bus makes several stops, including one at the Rachel crossing (#300) and then proceeds directly to Rachel's tomb. The bus winds around the wall, travelling along a winding road just wide enough for two vehicles which moves between two 8 meter walls for about 100 meters. The traveller can see nothing except for the gigantic, foreboding walls. Rachel's tomb itself is like a fortress — ugly, fortified, in view of three gigantic watch towers. Beyond the walls near the tomb were several apartment buildings that bordered the wall which totally blocked their access to what was once a bustling area of shops and businesses. All that, of course, is gone.
None of us had been to Rachel's tomb for decades, but we each had memories of a beautiful little building in the midst of olive groves in a gorgeous rural landscape. Once one enters the expanded Rachel's tomb enclave, all the windows are shaded so one cannot even look outside. The visitor feels entrapped in a darkened corridor.
There were about 50 people visiting while we were there, in addition to an army unit that was stationed in the immediate area. They were there on an educational tour and were being lectured to by a woman volunteer from the "Friends of Rachel's Tomb" or some such group. The woman gave them a talk which combined some Bible stories, some midrash, some "bubei meises" and some very dubious history. The visit by the soldiers, we were told, was part of a project to acquaint them with some of the historical sites in the area.
A border policeman would not allow us to stand outside the Tomb area saying we might be shot by snipers. However, in order to get to the toilets (which were not functional in Rachel's tomb itself), one had no choice but to walk along the path leading to alternative facilities.
We left the place with a terrible feeling of regret. The ugly, fortified Rachel's tomb, cut off from Bethlehem and surrounded by grotesque walls and watchtowers seemed to be a metaphor for Israel of our day. It was not a pretty (let alone inspiring) site.
__._,_.___ |