Deir Sharaf, Beit Iba

Deir Sharaf, Beit Iba, Sunday, 15.10.06 PM E only Observers: Aliya S., Yifat D., Susan L. (reporting) Visitor: Rahel D. Summary During today's shift we found ourselves pondering on the meaning of "commander" in the army which we observe week in, week out. At each checkpoint the commander is usually the "last word." But to what extent is he, in fact, in "command" of his unit? To what extent does he control others? And to what extent is he perceived as somebody in an official position, with the authority to command others? Next, how much respect or deference does he expect or does he get? Lastly, what is the weight of his leadership, and how far does his influence have some bearing on the behavior of the soldiers in his charge? But the usual question about a leader and the magnitude with which he guides or inspires others is one that never arises about a commander in the Occupied Territories. 13: 45 En route: just after the gas station, at the turn off for Alfei Menashe, but before the huge "border" checkpoint at Qalqiliya, a vast advertisement for brand new, multi-storey housing. Another such new sign along the roadway, near the newly gouged out olive groves, making way for the future "fence," by one of the Shomrons. Jit Junction and Qedumim industrial area, no rolling checkpoints. 14:00 Deir Sharaf The formerly busy Route 60 is filled with loose gravel and earth. The vast barrier wall and torrential rain earlier in the day had moved a lot of earth onto the roadway. The checkpoint above, at the settlement entrance, as usual, dead. A lone Zelda stands across the wire demarcating the one time border crossing toward Sebastia and beyond. A group of soldiers, also, as usual, waiting to be picked up from the military camp situated in the Jewish settlement, and nobody visible in the military tower above. At the wall itself, packing materials indicate that decoration proceeds apace on the inside, and deep slimy, clayey mud, into which one of us sinks, shows just how much rain has fallen. A beaten up minibus, outside the minimarket below, tells of an earlier accident. The road before the checkpoint is a complete disaster, pot hole pitted, the rains having drenched the filth that is everywhere, and the checkpoint is the same. 14:45 Beit Iba We hear how awful the situation is in the heart of Nablus. At the checkpoint itself, things aren't so wonderful either. The line of vehicles stretches up to the Huwwash Bros. carpentry workshop. There is chaos added to by a convoy of military vehicles, jeeps and Hummers, at least twelve of them heading away from the checkpoint. On our arrival, there are only two soldiers checking vehicles, the line from Deir Sharaf doesn't move, a UN ambulance coming from Nablus sits and waits, one foul mouthed soldier speaks to passengers in a minibus as if provoking an incident, and we see a third marching somebody to the main area of the checkpoint where E., a sergeant, is once again the commander. 15:00 -- we ask him about the paucity of manpower at the vehicle checking line, the impossible behavior of one soldier in particular, and we note that there are 13 detainees in the detention compound. He tells us that we are not to speak to the detainees, not to speak to any soldiers, only to him, and then proceeds to tell us that he has no time to talk. Eventually, the following ensues after we manage to ask why all these have been held: "Because they are detainees." OK, but why are they detained? "Because they're detainees." And so it goes but not without us getting a lecture thrown in for free.. The atmosphere is tense, another sergeant, D., arrives on the scene,roughly manhandling a man, an Israeli citizen (blue identity card)who complains to the commander about this. About this time, there are at least ten soldiers in the central compound of the checkpoint, some, we gather, being part of a change of shift. A captain and E. now confer, shouting at the Israeli, who's waiting to deliver flour off his truck to his brother who is supposed to come from Nablus (which the Israeli can't enter). Shortly thereafter, E. releases four or five men from the compound. The IDs are in his hand, we have no proof if he ever phoned for details, but it certainly doesn't look like it. One of the released men shows us his returned cell phone which has been disabled. 15:15 -- the change of shift is complete, including even a change ofbullet proof vest, but not before a newly arrived military policewoman tells one of the soldiers to lower his gun! E., having handed over IDs which are on his person, is relieved by a second lieutenant who immediately releases all the rest of the detainees. The atmosphere at the checkpoint changes visibly, although the weather has changed for the worse. It's raining cats and dogs, makingthe shed-like roof almost a blessing. Puddles and filth are everywhere, many of the young women students, as usual, immaculately dressed, complete with spiky, stiletto heels. The new commander's soldiers get on with the job, vehicles arechecked more quickly, more men at the vehicle checking post. Sometimes the humanitarian line is open, although at other times, a soldier argues if somebody steps into it and tries to send them back to the turnstiles where it's taking the approximately 30 people in line about thirty minutes to get through. 15:30 -- one man approaches the checkpoint with a neck brace via the humanitarian line, a soldier tries to send him back, the commander tells his soldier to let him go, and not to shout. Two men with cardboard crates of apples and pears approach the humanitarian line, are let through and thank the commander who then proceeds to tell the pedestrians from Nablus following them to return to the turnstile line.. Some leadership but no consistency.. 16:00 -- the second lieutenant is on the phone, as is another soldier. And it's calmer than it was. Even though the pedestrian line from Nablus is still long, the tension has gone. From Deir Sharaf, the commander doesn't bother to check anybody, although people are hesitant to cross without showing their IDs. He goes into the detention compound, to get out of the rain, and talks to two detainees. As we leave, we find the second lieutenant at the vehicle checking post, together with one man, trying to trace his ID. The ID of the Deir Sharaf resident, a middle aged man, was taken by the commander of the previous shift and is nowhere to be found.. And there is not one car approaching the checkpoint form the Deir Sharaf direction! The huge traffic jam of only an hour ago has been dealt with. Unfortunately, to misquote Robert Frost, "the one less traveled.has made all the difference."