Qalandiya checkpoint: crossing obstacles on the way to the pedestrian bridge

“And ye shall proclaim liberty to all the land…” (Leviticus 25:10) is how the Old Testament says it, but the planners of Qalandiya Checkpoint never read Leviticus and do not comprehend the meaning of the word ‘liberty’.

Here is what “those in the know” wrote about the checkpoint: There is a public transport terminal in the checkpoint especially for Palestinians traveling to the Old City of Jerusalem. Eventually the compound will be upgraded with cafes and shops. The security authorities are all for it: “It is in our interest that they cross at the crossing and not through the seam line”. Public transportation lines have been added. The quais are new and shaded, public latrines were erected and waiting areas are ready for the travelers’ welfare. The terminal regulates the traffic in the area and makes Palestinians’ lives easier.

Now for some reality: fearing the horrible traffic jams, we parked ahead of the checkpoint and walked to it - four women past their prime… The entire area is “… An asphalt road, facing a wall, beggars in the corner, I yell throughout the town, let people just look at me, just at me…” (Meir Banai - popular Israeli singer). Facing us was the horror bridge - for pedestrians. Naively, we thought that where there is a pedestrian bridge, there would also be a way to access is. Indeed, there is but meant for sturdy hikers only. We look to our right and left in order to learn from the people who cross it daily. They climb the wall. Past our prime or not - we climbed. Reached the foot of the bridge. Now we must choose between numerous stairs or a long steep ramp! What do the elderly do? The ill? Mothers with baby prams? People in wheelchairs? The planners of this work of art must surely know. The latrines are spick and span. How? Simple - they are locked.

We crossed the first turnstile leading to a corridor that ends in another turnstile. Along the walls are devices that read the magnetic card and make sure that anyone crossing here also gets back. Most of these devices are vandalized.

We reached the entry lanes to the checkpoint itself. The left one was open and we stood in line. Suddenly it closed. Shouts began in the line, for the soldier to open it. The soldiers in their posts were not impressed. After several minutes of such a “concert” we were signaled to move to the other lane. We ran there with the entire crowd and by the time we got there the soldiers signaled us to return to the left lane. Musical chairs… The soldiers are preparing for the changing of the guard, a feat so much more important than the Palestinians whom they are supposed to serve and as Israel’s late Commander in Chief said so long ago, are nothing but ‘cockroaches’. A little harassment never hurt anyone…

Calling the war-room, we learned that the checkpoint is open 24/7 and everything functions normally. Normally must have many significances. When, finally, after 20-25 minutes we entered the hall we realized that only 6 of the 18 magnetic card posts were open, wile another two inspect IDs and diplomatic or other permits.

Two civilian security guards came running from the depths of the checkpoint toward a youngster in his early twenties and demanded to see his ID. The young man was brave enough to decline and determinedly let them know they have no authority to make such demands. “Summon the police and I will gladly show them my ID”. The guards insisted he get out of the line and come to them, and he remained firm. The young man won out - small graces.

The DCO waiting line - opening at 8:30 a.m. and issuing magnetic cards at 150 shekels each - was very crowded. Crossing and receiving the card are a three-hour ordeal. On “normal” days even longer - now things are ‘cool’ or so I was told. Because of closure.

Cool, right?

We crossed and got out separately. In order to meet our driver, we returned to the obstacle course, but here a nice surprise awaited us - an improvised ladder that makes the climb so much easier. With the help of some nice young fellows who also got across, we managed to return to the liberty of the happy occupiers…