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A tour of southern Jerusalem in the shadow of the Black Sabbath massacre

Observers: Natanya Ginsburg (English), Anat Tueg (reporting and photographing) and Kamal, the driver
Jan-03-2024
| Morning

03.01.24

Natanya Ginsburg (English), Anat Tueg (reporting and photographing) and Kamal, the driver

The morning after the assassination in Beirut of the international deputy leader of Hamas, Saleh al-‘Arouri. A general strike was announced in East Jerusalem. The checkpoints are empty, the streets are empty. Only food stores are open and some pharmacies. Depressing atmosphere. The instructions for crossing the checkpoints have not been changed since October 7th: there is no passage for Palestinian workers with identity cards or women. There is no passage for traders. We met some exceptions: church workers, a worker from Bethlehem at a retirement home.

The soldiers were friendly, but they talked about October 7th as proof that all Palestinians are dangerous and the occupation, while oppressing, is necessary. It seems that the generation of soldiers born into the occupation, does not know the history of the conflict, and does not imagine another situation – not two states and not a common life. So what? They do not think further.

7:15 Bethlehem checkpoint – the emptiness is amazing. One passage is open and two pass, three. The buses to Jerusalem are empty and not moving. The Bethlehem vehicle crossing is also closed. A female and a male soldier are in a good mood. We are also almost welcomed.

We popped in to see what was happening at the neighbours’ in Rachel’s Tomb. Almost empty there too. Last week there were hijinks, but today even the women who ask Rachel for the fruit of the womb stayed at home.

The extensions of road 60 are not progressing – there are only a few heavy tools and a few workers.

Presence of soldiers and a blockage in the turn that Al-Khader had from road 375 (leading from road 60 Beitar Ilit and West). There are works beyond the barrier, and perhaps the intention is to create a new entrance to Palestinians from Husan . We didn’t want to trouble our driver, so we didn’t go down to ask.

Driving through Beit Jala to the Al Walaje checkpoint – remember there was a field school in Har Gilo?

By an act of settler magic, it has become a large settlement of two-story houses, sitting on the ridge and blocking the upper part of Al Walaje. But this time there is good news regarding the immediate demolitions announced before the war for 6 houses in the Lower Walaje – which is within the urban border of Jerusalem, but was surrounded by a separation wall. The hearing on the final petition was postponed in the meantime. This is good, because they are currently preparing an alternative master plan that will prevent the threats of demolition, the immediatey and those expected to occur in the future.

We did not enter Al Walaje itself; it is well taken care of by Ir Amim and Social Dharma associations.

But we drove through what was already supposed to be the new Walaje checkpoint, designed to prevent the residents of the Palestinian village getting to the historical Al Haniyeh spring (a place of recreation for the young men in times past). There is no one to do the work there either.

We drove to Wadi Nar (the container) via road 1 and Al Ezariya (this is a town adjacent to Abu Dis, area B, in front of the entrance above Maale Adumim). The road is long, with descents and a narrow and steep ascent at the end. There is a wide road leading from the entrance above Maale Adumim directly to the container barrier, but from it a side road forks to the southern Keidar settlement above Maale Adumim. The residents of Keidar pressed for a closure and all the Palestinians travelling from the central and northern West Bank to the south have to travel the long way.

Contrary to what we expected – at the checkpoint itself the traffic to Jerusalem was not busy, nor did we see any cars being stopped. And basically, how will many Palestinians get here when there are blockades around the villages and the towns in the south of the West Bank?

Two female security guards at checkpoints approached us and we had a short and friendly conversation, in which it became clear, in their opinion, the massacre on October 7th is the most defining and central event of the 57 years of the Israeli occupation (also in the West Bank) and there is no end to it. The shop/café at the intersection above the checkpoint is empty and the shelves are quite empty. There are no passengers on the road – no livelihood – no money to buy groceries.

We drove back through Abu Dis on the Palestinian side of the separation wall. The streets are empty and only food stores are open. In the vicinity of Al Quds University, it is evident that there were riots and protests because overturned garbage cans were thrown on the road. The area is under Palestinian civilian control and Israeli army control.

חנות/בית הקפה בצומת מעל המחסום ריקה מאדם והמדפים ריקים למדי. אין נוסעים בדרך – אין פרנסה – אין כסף לקנות מצרכים.

חיילים בחזרה נסענו דרך אבו דיס בצד הפלסטיני של חומת ההפרדה. הרחובות ריקים ורק חנויות אוכל פתוחות. בסביבת אוניברסיטת אל קודס ניכר שהיו כאן מהומות ומחאות לפי פחי זבל הפוכים שהיו זרוקים על הכביש. האזור הוא בשליטה אזרחית פלסטינית ובשליטה צבאית ישראלית. 

  • Al-'Eizariya

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    • Al-'Eizariya

      At exit from Al-'Eizariya, before square leading to Maale Adumim. Mobile checkpoint (jeep and Border Police) operating till 09:00 am, facilitating traffic exiting Maale Adumin on three kilometer strip of road, also permissible for Palestinian vehicles. A similar checkpoint in the opposite direction, on road between Mishor Adumim and Adumim Junction. This checkpoint facilitates settler traffic on the Jerusalem-Jericho-Rift Valley road.

  • Al-Walaja

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    • Al-Walaja

      A checkpoint for vehicles, located on the Green Line, in Nahal Refaim National Park. Staffed by Border Police and private security companies and active 24 hours a day. Palestinians are not allowed to cross, except for residents of East Jerusalem. Preparations are made to move the checkpoint so that The Ein Haniya spring, which has been used by the villagers for generations, will be permanently blocked for Palestinians, as will the the access to the 1,200 dunams of their surrounding agricultural land. Machsomwatch has been in contact with the people of village and reported on their changing situation over the years. (See the link to the reports)

      Part of the village is in the municipal territory of Jerusalem  drawn after 1967. In 2009 the village was surrounded by a separation barrier (mostly a wall) and then demolitionx of houses in the Jerusalemite part were carried out due to lack of building permits (but the fact is that no outline plan was prepared for the village, therefore it is impossible to get any permit for construction). In 2018, a petition was submitted to stop the demolitions, and it was agreed that the village, with the help of the organizations "Bimkom" and "Ir Amim" will prepare an outline plan, while the demolitions orders will be freezed. Despite the fact that the approval process  is underway and soon to be discussed in court,  a decision was approved in August 2023  to demolish 6 houses immediatly . Protest actions by inhabitants and various organizations, including Machsomwatch are now taking place to cancel this decree.

      updated to August 2023

  • Bethlehem (300)

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    • Located adjacent to the Separation Wall ("Jerusalem Wrap") at the north entrance to Bethlehem, this checkpoint cuts off Bethlehem and the entire West Bank from East Jerusalem, with all the serious implications for health services, trade, education, work and the fabric of life. The checkpoint is manned by the Border police and private security companies. It is an extensive infrastructure barrier and is designated as a border terminal, open 24 hours a day for foreign tourists. Israeli passport holders are not allowed to pass to Bethlehem, and Palestinian residents are not allowed to enter Jerusalem, except those with entry permits to Israel and East Jerusalem residents. Israeli buses are allowed to travel to Bethlehem only through this checkpoint.
      The checkpoint, which demonstrated harsh conditions of crowding and extreme passage delays for years, started employing advanced electronic identification posts and has upgraded its gates' system as of the middle of 2019  - and conditions improved.
      Adjacent to the checkpoint, in an enclosure between high walls and another passage, is the historic Rachel's Tomb, which is now embedded within a concrete fortified building. It contains prayer and study complexes for Jews only, as well as a residential complex. updated  November 2019   .
  • Container (Wadi Nar)

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    •  Wadi Nar Checkpoint ("Container", "The Kiosk") - a barrier for vehicles in Area B that is regularly manned - east of Abu Dis between Sawahra A Sharqiya and Bethlehem and its daughters. Controls Palestinian movement between the north and south West-Bank. Includes driving routes, access roads, spikes, traffic lights and signs. There is no pedestrian crossing. Open 24 hours a day with random checks enhanced on security alerts. The checkpoint is in Palestinian territory, allowing for separation between the north and the south Palestinian areas when necessary.

      In 2015, the leading road from Azaria to Bethlehem was renovated, as well as the steep and narrow ascent to the Wadi Nar checkpoint, which was dangerously travelled in both directions! The temporary checkpoint was renovated and expanded, and pedestrian traffic was banned. From 2016, traffic travelling from the south bank to Azaria was directed to a one-way road near the Southern Keydar Jewish settlement.

      Machsomwatch shifts visit this far-fetched checkpoint only occasionally.

      (updated to July 2019)

       

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